Support

There's no password to remember. Go to the sign-in page and enter the email address you bought with — we'll send a link to that inbox. Click it and you're in; it usually arrives within a minute or two.

Nothing there after a few minutes? Check spam first — automated mail lands there more often than it should. Still nothing, and no receipt from Paddle either? The email address captured at checkout probably has a typo in it. Email [email protected] with the email you meant to use, the name on the card you paid with, and roughly when/how much you were charged, and we'll look up your purchase and correct it.

A couple of things worth knowing about the link itself: it expires after 60 minutes and only works once, so if it's gone stale, just go back to the sign-in page and request a fresh one — that always works and needs nothing from us. Once you're signed in, you stay that way as long as you visit at least once a year; an active user is never signed out.

Two separate things live in two separate places. The tool itself — every feature, every formula — lives on our website, and you always get the current version the moment you sign in; there's nothing to install or update. Your data — every age, balance, input, and table edit — lives only in your browser, on your device. We never receive it. That split is what keeps your numbers private, but it also means your data is only as durable as that one browser profile: clear it, switch browsers, or switch devices, and there's no copy anywhere else to hand back to you.

⬇ Export data / ⬆ Import data is your backup: Export downloads a small file with just your numbers — every scenario, input, and table edit. Import loads that file back in, on this browser or any other, replacing whatever is currently there. It's good insurance against the most common way people lose data by accident: clearing cookies, which most browsers bundle together with the "site data" your plan actually lives in.

The one thing to keep in mind: an exported file only works together with the live site — sign in at lifetime-wealth-planner.com/app to get the tool itself, then use Import data to bring your numbers in. It's not a standalone copy of the tool the way older versions of this product offered; it's your numbers, meant to be reunited with the current live tool.

Rule of thumb: export every so often, especially before clearing your browser or switching devices, and treat that file as your one real backup. The in-tool guide (getting-started guide → "📖 How backups & recovery work") walks through exactly what to do if something's already gone wrong.

A scenario is a full, independent copy of every input — a way to compare options like "retire at 60" vs. "retire at 65," or a bigger vs. smaller Roth conversion, without touching or losing your original numbers. Change something in one scenario and every other one stays exactly as it was; nothing crosses over between them.

At the top of the tool is a Scenario: dropdown showing your current one (it starts as Base Case). Click "＋ Duplicate" to branch off a new scenario that starts as an exact copy of whichever one you're currently viewing — from there, change just the one or two things you're testing and leave the rest alone. Switch between scenarios anytime with the dropdown; each remembers exactly where you left it, and it auto-saves as you type, same as your main inputs. Use Rename to give a scenario a name worth remembering (e.g., "Retire at 65"), and Delete to permanently remove one you no longer need. The original Base Case can't be renamed or deleted, so you always have a fixed starting point to compare everything else against.

One thing worth knowing: scenarios live in your browser the same way your regular data does, so they're not automatically backed up anywhere. An Export data download carries all of your scenarios along, not just the one you're currently on — see the backup FAQ above.

Beyond comparing life choices like "retire at 60" vs. "retire at 65," scenarios are also a fast way to test tax strategy and to keep a running record of your progress.

To search for an optimal tax strategy — pick one scenario (or duplicate your Base Case once, so your real numbers stay untouched) and just change the Roth conversion bracket target itself, rerunning after each change: try "top of 22%," check the results, then try "top of 24%," check again. Because conversion sizing interacts with IRMAA tiers and the senior deduction in ways that aren't obvious by hand, watching how ending net worth, lifetime tax paid, and Monte Carlo success rate move as you flip that one setting is a fast way to find the target that actually wins for your numbers — no need for a separate scenario per bracket.

To track progress against your original plan — at the start of each year, duplicate your current scenario and rename it something like "2027 Baseline," then leave it untouched from that point on. Do the same the following year for "2028 Baseline." Since scenarios never affect each other, you build up a running series of snapshots you can flip between anytime — showing not just whether your net worth went up, but whether it kept pace with what the plan expected a year ago.

It depends on whether you'd backed it up first, and we want to be upfront about why: your numbers live only in your own browser, on your own device. We never receive a copy of them, so there's nothing on our end to hand back — this is the tradeoff for your data never touching our servers in the first place.

If you'd used Export data at some point, you're covered — sign back in at lifetime-wealth-planner.com/app, then use Import data with that file. If you never exported, there's genuinely nothing to recover, and you'll be starting over with fresh inputs.

The good news is this is easy to prevent going forward. Inside the tool, open the getting-started guide and click "📖 How backups & recovery work" (or click Learn more on the yellow backup reminder banner if one's showing) for the full walkthrough of how Export/Import data works and when to use it.

Yes to both. Sign in at the sign-in page with the same email on as many of your own devices as you'd like — laptop, tablet, phone — there's no separate license per device. Your data doesn't automatically follow you between them, though (see the backup FAQ above), so use Export data/Import data to carry your numbers from one to the next.

The license covers your household, so a spouse or partner using it too is fine. It's not intended to be shared outside that — reselling, redistributing, or handing your access along to someone else's household isn't covered by your purchase. If you're a financial advisor or planner wanting to use it with clients, that needs a separate professional-use license — email [email protected] and we'll set that up. Full details are in the Terms & License.

That's the small box that follows you down the page as you scroll, showing your projected net worth. Closing it with its × button turns it off for good on that device — on purpose, so it doesn't come back uninvited — but it's easy to undo.

Inside the tool, open the getting-started guide and click "📖 How backups & recovery work" (or Learn more on the backup reminder banner, if it's showing). At the bottom of that window is a link: "↺ Restore dismissed notices (save reminder, Net worth badge)". Click it and both the badge and the backup reminder banner come back, on this device.

Most of what the tool models is steady and predictable, so it's built into dedicated fields with their own escalation: your salary grows with the raise schedule you set, Social Security and pensions follow their own rules, and your Annual expenses climb with inflation every year. You don't need to touch anything for those to behave realistically over a 20–30 year plan.

Some income and expenses don't follow a steady pattern, though — they show up once, occasionally, or on a schedule the built-in fields don't fit. For those, use the Variable Income and Variable Expense columns in the year-by-year table: type an amount into the specific year(s) it applies to, and it flows into that year's numbers without disturbing anything else in the plan.

Variable Income (entered separately for each spouse) is added to that year's taxable ordinary income and reduces how much the plan needs to withdraw from your accounts. Good uses: a bonus, part-time or consulting work, rental income, alimony received, or any other taxable income that isn't already captured elsewhere.

Variable Expense is added to that year's Total expenses and funded from your accounts, the same way your regular spending is. Good uses: a new roof or major home repair, replacing a car, a wedding, a large one-time medical bill, alimony or child support paid, or a personal loan payment. If an obligation like alimony or a loan payment recurs for several years, just enter the same figure in each year it applies — there's no limit to how many years you can fill in.

On purpose. The line we draw isn't about value or depreciation — it's about whether you plan to sell something to fund your retirement. A house is commonly sold or borrowed against to fund retirement spending, so it's modeled. A car, furniture, jewelry, or other personal belongings you intend to keep and use aren't — they're consumption assets, not part of the pool your plan draws from, so adding a field for them would inflate your net worth number without telling you anything about your actual financial independence.

If you genuinely do plan to sell something — a vehicle, a collection, anything — to help fund retirement, that's easy to model: put the expected sale amount in as a one-time entry under Variable income for the year you expect to sell it. That puts the cash into your plan exactly where and when it would actually arrive, which is more accurate than carrying it as a static balance for years beforehand.

If instead you want an ongoing item to show up in your projected net worth every year — a rental property's equity, a business stake, a trust interest — without ever having the plan draw on it for spending, that's what Flex Asset is for; see the FAQ below.

Flex Debt covers any non-mortgage debt — student loans, credit cards, HELOCs, auto loans, personal loans, or anything else you're paying down outside of a home mortgage (mortgages have their own field on the Real Estate card). Turn on Flex Debt (non-mortgage) on the Dashboard, then enter Number of Flex Debts — up to 6 — and a row appears for each one you add.

Each debt gets its own label (optional, just for your own reference), starting balance, interest rate, and annual payment. There's no separate loan-term field: the tool simply accrues interest on the balance each year and applies your entered payment, so the payoff timing falls out naturally — raise the payment to pay it off sooner, or if the payment is less than a year's interest, the balance will grow instead of shrink. If you have more than 6 debts, combine the smallest ones into one blended balance/rate/payment.

All 6 slots are combined into one Flex Debt Payment column and one Flex Debt Balance column in the year-by-year table — you won't see a separate column per debt. The combined payment is funded the same way any other spending need is (drawn from your accounts in the plan's usual order), and the combined remaining balance is subtracted from your projected Net Worth.

Flex Asset is for anything you want counted toward your projected net worth that doesn't fit one of the tool's other account types — a rental property's equity, a stake in a business, a trust interest, a deferred annuity's cash value, collectibles, or anything similar. Turn on Flex Asset (other holdings) on the Dashboard, then enter Number of Flex Assets — up to 6 — and a row appears for each one, with its own label, current value, annual increase %, and volatility %.

The one thing that makes Flex Asset different from Brokerage, Crypto, your 401(k)/IRA, or every other account: it's never drawn on to fund retirement spending. It grows every year at the rate (and, if you're running Monte Carlo, the volatility) you enter — each of the 6 slots draws its own independent random return, the same way Crypto and Liquid do — and it always counts toward your Net Worth. But if your plan runs a shortfall, the tool will never sell down a Flex Asset to cover it the way it would with Brokerage or Liquid. It's there purely to make your net worth number accurate, not to fund cash flow.

Leave Volatility at 0% for something that just appreciates steadily with no market risk (like a fixed-rate deferred annuity); use a higher number — comparable to a stock-heavy portfolio's ~12%/yr, or more for something riskier — for a holding whose value genuinely swings year to year.